Canada has lost a great man.

I try to keep this blog away from politics and sensitive issues but, this is something that needs to be mentioned.

This morning Canada lost a great man.

NDP Leader and leader of the official opposition, Jack Layton  passed away from undisclosed cancer at the age of 61.

I have never cried about a politician, but Jack Layton was a genuine man who lived as he suggested we live. He was passionate, outspoken, charismatic, strong and vibrant. He brought a little bit of hope and humanity back into Canadian politics. Everyone who I know who has met him agrees he was a good person, an everyday person, who rode his bike to work and lived in an older home in downtown Toronto. He was a supporter of all Canadians, gay rights, the homeless, womens rights, and all before it was cool to do so. He never backed down from a fight and never passed up an opportunity to get a witty remark in.

For those of you who do not know of Jack, go find out. Search him on youtube, google, anywhere you can. The world lost something today that I don't think we can even yet comprehend. But, I for one, will remember his passion and his dedication and will not let it die with him.


Give them hell, Jack, wherever you are.

Decisions, Decisions...

A recent question from a good friend of mine made me think of making this post. The question was dealing with what kind of drugstore product did I recommend for his hair ( styling wise ). I am making the assumption that he is broke or just unable, for whatever reason, to afford professional product. So, that made me decide to write a bit about the difference between drugstore brands and professional hair care products and why you should buy your hair care products from your stylist or a professional beauty salon, barber, etc. only.

Quality

The first difference I noticed when I went from drugstore shampoo/conditioner to a professional brand when I started hair school was the quality. The product actually did what it said it would do. A moisturizing shampoo would actually make a difference in how my hair felt, how it styled, etc.. The reason this happens is because the majority of professional brand products take years to develop and use top of the line ingredients. There are very few if any fillers ( products such as water, salt, and other surfactants ). These fillers dilute the effectiveness of the working ingredients and allow companies to sell a bottle of shampoo at a lower price.  The problem with fillers is that now it takes more product ( shampoo, conditioner, mousse, etc. ) to do the job and it may not even do the job it says it is supposed to do. I, personally, have tried a slew of products in the past that were supposed to do something specific, such as smooth my crazy curls, only to discover that they change nothing. There are also different grades of the ingredients being used in these products and non-professional brands tend to use a lower grade of quality, making the product less effective and forcing you to buy it more often. One of the most common fillers used in Shampoos are salts. These salts are added to increase the amount of suds you get when washing your hair. There is a perception that the more suds = more cleansing, but that is not the case. The cleansing comes only from the actual cleansing agent/s, and not the suds.

I work extensively with Bumble and Bumble, an exclusive line out of New York. It may take years for them to release a new product because they will not release it without it being perfect. The ingredients used are more natural, high quality, pure and filler free. The product does what it says it is going to do because of the better quality ingredients and the R&D that goes in to formulation.

Which brings me to my next point...

R&D
( Research and Development )

I will use Bumble and Bumble as an example as I know them well. Bumble and Bumble started the retail product line with one product, Brilliantine, back in 1990. It was created because their session stylists ( stylists who do hair for photos shoots, runways, movies, etc.. ) needed a product that could create shine and smoothness in the hair without the crunchy, slicked gel look. Brilliantine was born, but not released until it went through numerous testings, formula tweaks and generally was looked at through a microscope to find the slightest flaw. What they got and still have today,is a product that does exactly what it says it does and is a still being sold in huge numbers today, over 20 years later. There are not too many products in either salons or drug store that can boast about that. In the last 20 years, the Bumble line has expanded to include over 20 products for every hair type and style. Each product goes through the same testings and examinations as the original Brilliantine did. It takes years before a product is released because it will not hit the shelves until it is perfect and Bumble and Bumble is not the only product line to do this. The K-Pak line from Joico has also undergone a lot of R&D to get it to the point it is at now. Without getting into the specifics, K-Pak uses actual human hair keratin to repair your hair. It is not synthetic keratin but actually created in a process that I only half understand, out of real human hair. The result is a product that repairs damaged hair like no other. It has taken years upon years of research and development for K-Pak to get to where it is at. It has been voted, by consumers and stylists alike, as the number 1 hair repair line 10 years in a row. Why do professional companies put so much time and effort into making sure their products are the best they can be? Because their name is tied directly to these products and their recognition comes from having a quality product, not from tv ads or celebrity endorsements. The majority of professional products rely on the quality and functionality of the product to speak for itself, thus allowing more time and money to go into developing better items. That cannot be said for most non-professional brands with major television and print ad campaigns.

Personalization

There are quite a few products on the shelves from pomades to waxes, mousses to gels, voluminous sprays to moisturizing conditioners. And there are multiple brands of each one. Knowing what to choose is 3/4 of the battle. Buying from a professional salon, from a stylist you trust, gives you the benefit of knowing that the product you are walking out the door with is the right product for you. Many people will think they need a certain product for their hair; for example, they think their hair is dry so they get moisturizing products. As it may turn out, the hair may be chemically damaged and needs keratin and repairing products to fix it. No matter how many moisturizing products are used, the hair will never be repaired. If you are sick, you go to a doctor to tell you what drugs to take. If you hair is 'sick' getting the cure from a professional makes sense. In a drug store, there is no one to help in the decision and no professional who knows your hair to tell you what it needs. There are more then a few people who end up with a closet full of half full products that don't work.


Cost

Does it cost more to purchase a professional product over a non-professional product? Initially, yes. The price you pay at the time will be more, sometimes a lot more. You are paying for the R&D that goes into the product, the high quality ingredients and the training and knowledge your stylist has to recommend that product to you. But, if that is not enough to get you over the $ amount on the product, have I got something for you.

The average application of a non-professional shampoo is $0.08 per wash.

The average application of a professional shampoo is $0.05 per wash.

That's right! It is actually more cost effective in the long run to use the professional quality product.

The reason for this difference is, as discussed earlier, the quality of the products and the lack of fillers allowing the product to actually work how it is supposed to. The shampoo may not suds up as much, the conditioner may not feel as thick, the mousse may not expand as much. But, if applied properly as your stylist recommends, the product will work better so you will need to use less and it will last longer.

Another way to see the cost is that it is maintenance for your hair. If you bought a $40,000 vehicle, you would make sure you are spending money on a good oil change, good tires, transmission flushes, etc. to keep you car in top shape. You want to make sure you keep your investment at it's best. Your hair is no different. The average women spends $165 each appointment on their hair. Why would you not want to spend another 10%-20% on making sure that investment is taken care of. Colours last longer and look newer, hair can be styled for a longer period of time, and yours frustration with your hair is kept to a minimum with professional products.

Before I finish here, I just want to touch a little on something that is called diversion. In essence, professional products end up in drugstores through unauthorized means ( theft, 'fell off the truck', a salon going out of business ) and are sold. It clearly states on most of these bottles that the product should only be sold in professional salons. The problems with buying diverted products are many. The main concerns being health. There is no way to guarantee or prove that what is in the bottle is actually the product it claims to be. There is no way to know what the packaged date or expiration date is on the product or if it has been kept in proper storage before making it to the shelf. One could be buying dish soap that has been on a shelf for three years in a sub zero storage unit when they thought they were buying a Redken shampoo. If certain chemicals have been added, there could be adverse effects on your hair, your skin and your over all health.

Well, enough for tonight. Hope you had a good read! Questions, comments, insults, etc...please feel free to leave them.

Happy Hair Days

Victoria

Oh, and invite your friends...there can never be too many.

Permissions or Stop, Slow down and GO!

The entry deadline for the Contessa Awards is tomorrow, so I feel safe posting my final submissions here for the world to see.

I worked with an amazingly talented team to bring what was in my head to the head of others and onto a photograph.

Daryl Croft  did another fantastic job photographing for me. He is always a wonder to work with both in skill and personality.

My three amazing models were: Red Light Mlee Fisher , Yellow Light Aysha O'Brien, and Green Light Angela Ben Ephraim . All three trusted their hair to my hands and did a stellar job of creating the feel for each Light or permission.

The ever talented Ashly McKessok of  In Your Face Make Up did the faces for me and translated my disjointed brain's image into great make-up. You will note I sing her praises often, but there is really not enough awesome words in the English language to cover how great she is.

Enjoy!

Red Light means Stop!

Yellow Light means slow down.

Grenn light means GO!

Feels like a memory.

I had the opportunity a couple weeks ago to work with a group of immensly talented people to create photos that remind me or memories of times gone by.

Trisha Pasnak, a wonderfully talented local Edmonton designer ( you can find her HERE ) came up with the concept. Inspired by classic movies, such as the original Sabrina with Audrey Hepburn, she created a dress that reminds us of another time.

Darcy Evans was the photographer. I have had the pleasure of working with Darcy on a few occasions and have found, after only 10 months in the business, that he is one of the best photographers and people I have been able to work with.

My amazing colleague and friend, Ashly of In Your Face Make-up, did the make-up. Ashly has got to be the most talented artist I have worked with to date. If that is not enough to make her awesome, she is always a wonderful person to work with, with no ego, which is a very nice thing.

And last, but definetly not least, our beautiful model, Melissa Monz, rounded out the group. Melissa is new to the modeling world but impresses me everytime with her ability and stunning beauty.

I did the hair, such a small part of a wonderful group of people. Enjoy the photos and check out the talented people who helped make them happen.

Have a lovely evening everyone.

Temna Fialka Shoot

Here are a few shots from a shoot I did a few months ago with some amazingly talented people.

Model: Terese WaddellMake-up: Lydia Yapp of  Edmonton Make-up Artists
Photography: Samantha Scharf Photography
Clothes and Headpieces: Natasha Lazarovic of Temna Fialka

I have worked with the amazing Samantha Scharf a few times before this shoot and I always enjoy working with her. I had also worked with the designer's clothes on previous shoots but have yet to meet the designer, Natasha Lazarovic herself.

It was my second time working with Lydia and I have since worked with her and am awed by how amazing she is at her craft.

It was my first meeting with the model, Therese and enjoyed every moment of it. She is a wonderful girl and I would be happy to work with her again.

Happy Hair Days everyone.

Changes

Hi everyone.

So, I am hoping to work on this blog more and make a few changes. I may start adding in things that don't necessarily pertain to hair directly and more just to my life. I will also be featuring more of my photo shoot work and the other artists who work with me on them more. If there are any suggestions or things that you want to see, let me know.

I also noticed I only have 9 followers. You nine people are AWESOME! I would however, like some more followers, so  if you can invite, suggest, threaten your friends to follow this blog, that would be great. Thank you so much.

Victoria

2011 is here!

Happy New Year fans!

I have let the blog slip over the last few months, which have been crazy crazy months for me, but here I am. Instead of guaranteeing a weekly blog, I will be aiming for closer to monthly, or bi-weekly if I can swing it. Also, I will be making the blogs a tad bit shorter. I realized that I ramble a lot and keep going on about things that have nothing to do with what I am talking about. Just like that last sentence there.

It's a new year and with a new year come new fashions, trends, and hairstyles. What we will be seeing a lot of for the rest of the winter is practical colours and hair cuts. The bob is making another surge in popularity but this time, it is a longer version of what we have been seeing. Colours are still very rich and strong, but still subdued and mysterious. Men's styles have begun to grow out a little, in anticipation of the lazy summer months but still in keeping with the clean cut, 1960's option.

Jessica Alba is currently sporting the longer bob. She has chosen to pair hers with a short fringe. Although a fringe of her length is not practical in everyday life, as it hangs in the eyes, the idea behind the fringe is to accent the eyes and give the cut an edge.

The other option for this cut is to get rid of the fringe and opt for some shorter layers in the front, what I call Psuedo-bangs. Sandra Bullock had a great version of this option a while ago and it is still one of my favorite styles on her.

In both options, the ends are left quite blunt. There is a distinct movement away from the texture and pieces we have seen in the last couple years. Although still maintaining layering and internal texture, the overall look is clean, polished and a little bit heavy. This is not to say that you can't have the texture if you want, but make sure it is being placed internally and that the outline of the cut is left solid.

Ryan Reynolds' look

Moving on to men. First, I would just like to say that if you men are ever lost on what to do for your hair or even your basic style, just look up a recent picture of Ryan Reynolds and go with what he is doing. That man is never far off the trends and he always looks impeccable, whether in jeans and a t-shirt, a winter coat or a suit. That being said, he is a prime example of the direction in men's hair styling right now.

Don Drape, AMC's Mad Men

Slightly longer lengths are going to be the trend for men in the coming year. Last fall we saw a decidedly Mad Men, 1960's business man look and this year continues the trend but with a softer, more laid back flair. Think of a laid back Don Draper. A style and length like this can be worn pulled to the side or messed up a little bit more. However, the option is still there, a totally on trend, to slick the hair a bit more for that very dapper look.

That's all for now. Hope this helps you plan out your hair for the next few months. The questions have slowed down over the past few months so lets start them up again. You can find me on facebook @ Victoria, Ph.D or drop me a message here.

Comments and suggestions are always appreciated.

Happy Hair Day!

Victoria

Some Q & A

I have been a little lax on my blogging. My apologies. No excuse. 

Now, on with the show.

I have a couple things planned today, mostly based around products and product usage. I will be answering some questions that pertain to that subject, so away we go!!!

" Is it true that you should change your shampoo/conditioner every so often, to avoid build-up? 

- Tess Chappell, Edmonton, Alberta.  

This is always an interesting question to answer because part of the answer is yes and part of the answer is no.

It is recommended that you change your shampoo/conditioner every so often but not because of it causing build-up. If you have a good shampoo/conditioner ( in the future called s&c )that is right for your hair, you are rinsing properly and there are no added salts, waxes and such in your product, build up should never be an issue with your s&c. However, just like the rest of your body, your hair needs certain things at different time. Think about it in terms of a car. You are driving a long and suddenly it starts making a sound, you see that the 'change oil' light is on. This means that your car needs oil, so you go out, get some oil and put it in your car. The next day you are driving and you see the 'low fuel' light. You stop at the nearest gas station and put gas in your car because that is what it needs at that time. You wouldn't put oil in your car every time there is an issue with it because it doesn't always need oil.

It is the same with your hair. Sometimes, after a colour for instance, your hair may need protein and re-hydration because colour can pull the moisture out of your hair; However, after a time, your hair needs will change because it has been repaired/your colour has grown out/etc...Your hair may not need extra protein and re-hydration, it may instead need a great cleansing shampoo and a light conditioner to get rid of tangles. This is why it may sometimes feel like there is a build up on your hair and why people feel that their s&c are no longer working. So, yes, it is good to change your s&c periodically based on your hair's needs.

" What is a good way to tame fly-away hair? My hair is so fine, it kind of sticks up all over the place! I don't like to use a lot of product, but is there something I can use to help? "

- Amanda Mullins, Edmonton, Alberta.

This is a problem that is quite common with finer haired people and many people in dryer climates, like Alberta! Unlike people with coarser hair who can use almost any product on the market without their hair being weighed down and looking greasy, fine hair with flyaways presents two problems.

1. Keeping the hair from fluffing up all over.

2. Not weighing the hair down, making it look greasy.

Luckily there are a bunch of solutions to solve problem #1 without causing problem #2.

YAY!!!

The first thing to look at, especially if you do not like using a lot of product, is your s&c. A lot of s&c's for fine hair actually encourage the hair to puff up because that is what many fine haired clients are wanting. This is great if you are going to be styling your hair on a regular basis and using other products, but if you are not, then this now becomes an issue. If product is not your thing, I suggest staying away from the volumizing and thickening s&c's ( Unless your hair is thinning, in which case you should be using products designed specifically for that, if that is a concern ) If your hair is coloured, you want to go with a light s&c for colour treated hair, but be careful you are not getting anything that has super conditioning in it as that will weigh the hair down and make it flat and greasy. Most professional s&c's are formulated to be safe for colour treated hair. A particular product I recommend in this case would be the Alojoba s&c from Bumble and Bumble. This combination has the great properties of aloe and jojoba, both great for repairing the hair without being too heavy.

Alojoba Conitioner

Alojoba Shampoo

If you have a s&c that you love already and just want a simple styling product to help combat flyaway hair or if you want to combat them on the days that you do not wash your hair, then there are a couple options. In this case, I always recommend sprays as opposed to creams or serums. Why? you may ask. It is not that the product would not work well, in fact they work great! It is because many people, myself included at times, tend to over use products, especially products that are put into the hands first. Saying a tiny drop will do only works for the first week or so and then we forget and go back to the much larger drop of product in our hands. Sprays also tend to distribute more evenly throughout the hair so you don't end up with a clump of product in the front of your hair and none in the back.

So, what products work for this? Light hairsprays ( and I mean light!! ), spray waxes ( but used sparingly ) and dry shampoos. I love the Does It All hairspray from B&B ( yes, I love my B&B )

Does it All

It has a great light hold and also works well with your heat styling tools if you decide you want to curl your hair. Multi-use products = win. A dry shampoo is also an option in this case, especially if you are a wash every second or third day person. Dry shampoos help soak up any excess oils in the hair and scalp, helping the hair feel clean without stripping anything away, it is also nice because it adds some grit and weight to the hair without greasiness, keeping those flyaways in check. 

Can you please tell me how hard and soft water affect the health and structure of hair and scalp (as related to hair grown/falling out)? 

- Linda Stevens, Crossfield, Alberta

I grew up most of my teenage years on an acreage just outside of Brandon, Manitoba. We had hard water. We didn't drink it but we bathed in it and washed our clothes in it and I distinctly remember my white volleyball uniform coming out yellow after washing it. So, needless to say, hard water will do the same to your hair. Blonds have a particularly hard time with hard water turning their ashy, natural blonds into golden locks. It is frustrating to be sure. The best thing to help prevent and counter act this would be a two product solution. The first being getting a toning s&/or c. These s&cs help balance out unwanted pigments in the hair, in this case, yellow, but depositing small amounts of a complimentary colour ( remember the colour theory blog? ), in this case purple. The second solution would be to once a week clarify any hard water build up with a clarifying shampoo followed by a hydrating conditioner.
To answer this question specifically though, I need to go further then the colour of hair. Hard and soft water are on opposite ends of the spectrum. On the high end you have hard water which contains a high percentage of minerals and metals ( ours had copper, hence the orange/yellow tone ) where as soft water has virtually none. They each prevent different problems to hair and scalp.


Hard water, which contains lots of minerals and metals, tend to dry our the hair and scalp and create a build up of hard minerals on the hair which generally makes it hard for any conditioning products to enter and hydrate the hair. This is also true of the scalp, where build up can clog hair follicle leading to the hair bulbs suffocating and dying, leaving your head with one less hair follicle to grow hair out of. If this happens enough, you may find yourself with very thin hair. Itchiness and flaking on the scalp is also a common issue caused by the same drying effect. Curly haired people may find that their beautiful curly hair has now become a frizzy, kinky mess and this is also due to the drying effect. The solution??? Clarifying Shampoos followed by a hydrating shampoo and intense hydrating masque.

Sunday shampoo

Quenching Masque



The reason we are using two shampoos is simple. The clarifying shampoo will remove the build up on the hair, cutting through the mineral deposits and leaving your hair clean and naked. The hydrating shampoo will add much needed moisture while still gently cleansing any left over stuff out of the hair. The masque continues the hydration but to the EXTREME!!! It adds tons of moisture to the hair, restoring what should be there in the first place. I also suggest getting your hair wet as little as possible when living with hard water as this will cut down on the amount of minerals being deposited.




And now for soft water. Soft water has the opposite effect of hard water and one would think that is a good thing, but despite what the saying generally says, you can get too much of a good thing. The biggest problem with soft water is that it makes the hair soft, lacks any minerals and doesn't cleanse or rinse the hair properly. Lets start with the soft part and why that is an issue. Hair that is too soft has very little strength and shape. It just hangs there. It will slip out of elastics and bobby pins, flop flat even after styled and generally just be lazy. It is beyond frustrating to deal with from a stylist point of view and I can only feel sympathy for people trying to work with it at home. The key with soft water and hair is the make sure you are using a very, very light s&c. Anything too moisturizing or softening will only add to the problem. You still need to cleanse the hair and close the cuticle ( which is what conditioner does ) but you don't need to add a tons of extras. Soft water can cause build up in it's own way. Because soft water does not have the minerals in it to rinse product out properly, it tends to leave a build up both on the hair and the scalp, causing similar problems to hard water. The difference being that the hair will feel incredibly soft as opposed to dry and rough. Roughing up the hair is the best way to deal with soft water when styling. Getting a regular colour or highlights will help as it damages the cuticle a little causing hair to stick together more. Another option is to use product to make the hair gritty. Dry shampoos and spray waxes are just the answer for this, even when just putting hair in a pony tail. The products will help your hair grip to whatever you are putting in it. For curly hair, a rough cream with a good hold will do the trick. Thickening sprays, light hair sprays, medium hold creams work great as well for holding hair in pins or bands and for short hair, stick with grittier pomades and clays.




At that's all she wrote, folks.




Have a great night and happy hair days.

Tickled Pink ( and other colours )

The Basics Of Choosing a Colour for your Hair.

Hello again everyone. Sorry for being a bit late this entry. Crazy craziness happens in my life sometimes and my brain cannot sort itself out. But after a few days of hot yoga my mind is clear. This one will be a continuation of my last post answering part of Amanda's question. If you have not read the previous post or are not sure of her question, you can check it out by clicking on my blog archives to the right of your screen.

Today we talk about colour and colour choices for you and your skin. There is a related article recently posted by an awesome make-up artist whom I have the pleasure of knowing. You can check that out here http://glamazonbeautyblogging.blogspot.com/2010/09/monistat-for-my-face-and-color.html. And now, onward and upward.

The Colour Wheel!!!

Let's start with a bit of basic colour theory. The first thing you need to know about is this, The Colour Wheel! The colour wheel is the foundation of all hair colour choices that we make, be it what works best with your skin or how to go about getting you to that awesome colour. The colour wheel I have here is a very basic one, just to illustrate what I am talking about. There are much more complicated ones, but lets stick to this one.

There are three Primary Colours: Blue, Yellow and Red. From these colours comes every other colour we know of (black and white are not colours, they are shades). The Secondary Colours, which are the most immediate colours the Primaries make are Purple, Orange and Green. From these colours you get the blue-greens, the purple-reds, etc. Colours opposite each other on the colour wheel are call Complimentary Colours. If we look the colours wheel, we can see that yellow and purple are opposite and so they could be Complimentary Colours.

What does that mean? There are two thinks that complimentary colours do. The first is obvious from the name, they compliment each other. In the hair world, we use these to make enhance features( mainly the eyes ) That is why green eyes on a person with red hair are so intense and are the first thing you notice. The second thing that complimentary colours do, and is the most often used when working with hair, is they cancel each other out when put together. Hairdressers use this a lot when choosing colour formulations.

Alright, we all understand out basic colour theory now. We are moving on into how this directly affects you when trying to choose a colour for your hair. Grab a white piece of paper, stand in front of the mirror and and hold the paper up to your cheek. Look at your skin and find out what the predominant undertone is. The white paper will help make the background where you are looking neutral so you can truly see you skin tone, not darkness or lightness, but tone. You may have an underlying tone of yellow as many people of Asian decent do or you may find that a pink is the colour that you notice, or even a blue. These all very much affect how a colour will look on you.

Me without make-up : D

For example, the two panels of colour above are both red. ( The one could be argued to be orange but it is considered red) The one on the left has an underlying tone of blue while the one on the right has a tone or yellow (or orange). This is what we are looking for in your skin tone, the underlying tone. I will use a photo of me as an example. I have quite pale skin but as you can see, next to the white paper, a good amount of pinkish tones seem to jump out. So, my underlying skin tone is pink/red.
Once you have found your skin tone, you are ready to figure out colour.



Choosing the right colour

To choose the right colour for you, a few things need to be taken into account. First, we'll start with skin tone, which you just figure out. You need to ask yourself this question first: Do I want to enhance my skin tone or not?


If the answer is not, then you do not want to use a complimentary colour on your hair, that is, the colour that is opposite your skin tone on the colour wheel. For myself, with a pink/red undertone, not wanting to enhance that, I would not choose anything with a green tone to it and probably not a yellow or orange tone either as they are both on the same side of the wheel as green.


Secondly, you need to ask yourself this question: Is there something on my face ( ie. Usually eyes ) that I want to enhance? If the case is yes there, then you will want to choose a colour that is opposite the colour of your eyes on the colour wheel.
                                                                     
Katie Holmes has a great colour in this picture. Not only does it make her eyes stand out but it also looks great with her skin tone, being on the same side of the colour wheel as her underlying tone but not too similiar as to make her skin show too much of that tone. ( Her skin tone has a reddish tone to it )

Katie Holmes' eyes pop.

Cameron Diaz

Cameron Diaz, on the other hand, does not look great in this colour. I love Cameron, but this colour is not for her. The colour of her hair does nothing for her eyes, being that it is very close to their colour on the colour wheel. ( Blue eyes, ashy toned colour ) But the biggest issue here is the skin tone/hair combo. Cameron, I believe has got a slightly yellow tone to her skin ( although it is hard to tell based on this picture because she has a lot of make-up on ). The ashy colour ( usually blue or green based ) in the colour pulls all the colour out of her skin, making her appear very pale.  The make-up here does not help either.


A few more things need to be kept in mind when choosing hair colour. The general rule is that darker, more matte hair colour, like Cameron's, makes a person look older and will define and enhance any lines or wrinkles you may have. The different between Katie's colour and Cameron's is that  Katie's has a warm glow to it and is super shiny, while Cameron's is very matte and one dimension.


If you wanting to go dark with very light skin or light with very dark skin, you need to keep in mind the general rules for colour as mentioned above. When moving drastically one way or the other from your natural colour, the more these rules need to be considered.


This has been a very basic break down of how to choose a colour for your hair. There is a lot more things I could say on the subject, but I will leave that for tonight and let this sink in. It is always best to talk to your hair stylist/colourist about the colour or colours you are thinking of going. They will let you know what will work or not for you.


Until next week, keep those questions coming and happy hair days.
 

Square, Round And All That's In Between

 

Did you know that the leaves on trees change colour because of the change in sunlight and not because of the drop in temperature??  I have known this for a while, but this time of year I always end up telling a lot of people about it. Everyone comments on the temperature  and says “ It’s gonna be a cold year because the leaves are already turning, “ That leaves me ( no pun intended ) to explain the above mentioned fact. So, now you all know why leaves change colour.

Enough about trees and leaves, I have a question to answer from a client and good friend Amanda Mullins who runs a blog entitled Frayed Threads; You can find a link to it on the right side of the page. Anyway, Amanda sent me this question, amongst a few others.

"One of the hardest things to decide when changing up my hairstyle is what colours would look good on me? I've read sites that say if your skin is "cool" or "warm" then certain colours will suit, and if you have an "oval" or "square" face, certain cuts, but how well does that really work? I usually just end up sitting in your chair and letting you do what you want, because I know it will be awesome, but if I wanted to plan it, how would I go about it?"

This is a long and intricate question to answer....and I am happy to do it as there is a lot of information floating around out there on what colour, haircuts, etc. you can and cannot wear. Here, I will hopefully make it easy to understand and easier for everyone to decide what look they would like. It is also good to understand that liking a hair style you see on celebrity does not mean that the stylist will be willing to or able to create that exact look on you. After today, though, I hope you will be able to see styles that you like and envision what they would look like on you and how the stylist may alter them to suit your body, face shape, colour and lifestyle.

I will start off with the basics of face shape.

There are roughly nine different face shapes.  (I say roughly because some people will classify them as six distinct shapes, putting a few of them into the same category. I prefer to use nine because it allows for a more wide range of ideas and solutions. )

To find your face shape, pull all your hair back off your face and look in a mirror. Trace the shape of your face (not the hair or ears) in the mirror with soap, lipstick or water (or whatever works) and look at the shape you drew. That is the shape of your face. The ideal shape, from a fashion and aesthetic standpoint, is the Oval shape and the goal is to create the illusion on an oval shape when doing hair or make-up. Keep in mind, however, that I am not saying that there is a right or wrong shape of face. Generally, oval shaped faces are the most flattering and most symmetrical.  However, if you love the way you look with a heart shaped face that’s great. But, let’s keep this basic.

Meghan Fox is a great example of an oval face shape.

Oval Face Shapes can wear any style you can think of. Cute little short crops to long waves will all work on this face shape. Because this is the ideal face shape there is no need to worry about creating the illusion of a different face shape. The only things to take into consideration here is if you have any features you would like to enhance, but that will come later.

Oblong Face Shapes are quite common and may appear to be oval at first glance, however, Oblong faces tend to be longer then ovals, with high foreheads and long chins. Generally, these faces are much thinner then they are long. Think of Sarah Jessica-Parker and Liv Tyler as stars who have oblong face shapes.

Live Tyler

To create the oval illusion with an oblong face, you want to add width to the cheek area or take away length from the forehead. I will use pictures of Liv Tyler as an example because I love that woman.

Full Bangs also bring out the eyes

Bangs help cover the forehead, bringing your eye to her eyes and below. By taking away the higher forehead, we have created a more oval shape. Bangs are also a great way to highlight and add intensity to eyes.

If bangs are not for you, another way to create an oval shape is to add more width to the cheek area like the picture on the right. This will add width or volume in the cheek area to even out an oblong face shape.

Faces look rounded when hair is pulled back.

Another common face shape is the Round Face Shape. This is a shape that is generally the same width as it is long, but it may vary slightly. If people have always been squeezing your cheeks then you probably have a round face.

 Oh, how I love Kate Winslet and it was very hard for me to find a photo of her that really showed off her face shape as she is always impeccably styled. One big think to avoid with round face shapes is heavy straight bangs and pulling your hair tightly off your face. A round shape needs height at the top to create length and a more smooth, less voluminous style around the cheeks to slim them down. 

Center parts slim round faces

A side part is your best bet with either a side sweeping bang or soft layering around the face. Keep layers and the all over length of the hair below your chin to help your face look longer. Centre parts are possible, just make sure to keep your hair soft and the part loose. Super straight and super curls are not a good match for round face shapes.

 Many times a Rectangular Face Shape will be put into the Oblong category, but I disagree with that. A rectangular face has a square chin and forehead whereas an Oblong shape is much softer and more rounded.

Avoid pulling hair off the face.

Do wear your hair soft.

I am not a huge fan of Angelina Jolie for multiple reasons, but she does have a very rectangular face and is a great example of what not to do and what to do. With rectangular faces, you want to avoid too much height on top and any harsh, straight, rigid hairstyles. To soften the angles, make sure you are getting lots of layering, especially around the face, and soft bangs. Anything solid, straight and heavy will accentuate these areas. If you do want the heavy and straight look, avoid have the straight lines of the hair cut fall at your chin. With bangs, keep them more rounded on the face.

Volume on top lengthens a square face

Square face shapes are very similar to rectangular face shapes with one exception. A square face benefits from height on top and long lengths falling below the chin. Short hair is possible with both rectangular and square face shapes but need to be kept quite soft and feminine.

Classic Triangle Shaped Face

 The Triangle and Inverted Triangle Face Shapes have the same styling needs just in opposite areas. A triangle shape is wider at the chin and narrower at the forehead where as an inverted triangle is wider at the forehead and narrow at the chin. Victoria Beckham has a classic inverted triangle shaped face. 

With the inverted triangle, adding volume to the forehead areas will create a wider looking forehead, emphasizing the triangle shape. With Victoria’s cut, it mostly works because the front layer or bangs are heavy enough and hang across the forehead to narrow it, however, it does emphasize the triangular shape of her face. Generally speaking, a side swept bang and volume or heaviness created at the chin will create a more even, oval face. Short hair also works with this shape, as long as the movement is kept on the top of the head.

Short hair can be great

Volume at the bottom evens out a diamond face.

Diamond Shapes are characterized by a narrow forehead and chin and wider cheeks. Creating width at the forehead and the chin or narrowing the cheeks helps create an oval shape. You want to avoid styles that widen at just the bottom or the top or that are voluminous at the cheeks.

  The last face shape I will talk about is the Heart Shape Face. The defining features of a heart shaped face is, usually ( but not always )  a widows peak on the hairline and a quite narrow jaw. Unlike the inverted triangle, heart shaped faces have wide cheeks and the narrowing starts below them.

Side sweeping bangs narrow a wide forehead

A bare forehead emphasizes the width

A side swept bang will help create height and narrowness through the top area where it is widest and volume at the chin helps even out the face shape.

If going for short hair it is good to keep longer pieces in the front to slim the sides of the face as well as keep all the movement and volume on top.

Besides face shape, there are whole bunch of other factors involved in choosing the right cut for you. Body shape, profile, the position and size of features on your face, all factor in.

Add a textured, heavy fringe to highlight eyes

To bring out eyes, as mentioned before, aim for bangs that frame the eyes. They should be quite heavy and full, but adding some texture in can be a good idea.

If you feel you have a large nose, wear a style that comes forward on the face to blend it in. In this case, you want to stay away from any cut that is cut back, away from the face. Also, cuts that have volume in the back help balance out the look.

Always keep in mind that strong, straight lines will draw the eye to that focal point. If you have a great jaw line you want to highlight, a sharp angled bob at the jaw lengths can enhance that.

One last key thing to remember: If you are a large person, you want to make sure you hair is in proportion to your body. Flat, very short hair styles will make your body appear bigger. On the flip side, if you are quite petite, very big, curly or voluminous hair will over power and make you look smaller.

These are some of the basic things to keep in mind when planning a hair cut. Since this is such a large topic, I will go into the colour side of this either later this week or at my regular blog time next week.

Until then, stay warm and happy hair days!